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Smashed Performance Coolant Filtration System 2003-2007 Ford Powerstroke 6.0L


Product Description

Add years of life to your Ford F-250, F-350 & Excursion 6.0L diesel engine with this Water Coolant Filter Bypass System. Removing contaminates such as the casting sand and metal shavings left over from the manufacturing process means your water pump, EGR cooler and engine oil cooler will all last longer. This kit is designed to bypass and filter small amounts of coolant while your Ford Powerstroke engine is running.

The CNC machined billet 6061 aluminum construction filter head attaches to supplied bracket, which mounts to factory holes in your Ford truck’s chassis. The filter boss includes 2 threaded inlet ports and 1 outlet port. This coolant bypass kit includes all fittings needed for installation. We recommend replacement of the first filter at 500 miles. Replacement of the second and third filters is at 3,000 miles each. After 3 filter changes, replacement can be done once a year. The silicone hose fittings are pre-assembled for simple leak-proof connections. Mounting bracket installs into factory holes. No drilling is required.

Kit Includes:

  • Coolant Filter, Filter Block and Mounting Bracket
  • Silicone Coolant Lines
  • Teflon Tape
  • Ball Shut Off Valves
  • Hose Clamps

Product Reviews

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  1. Idaho 5 Star Review

    Posted by on Mar 5th 2017

    Excellent kit at a great price! This is how I’ve installed it on my 04 F350 6.0 powerstroke. When looking at the top side of the head with the flat end towards you & round end away, you’ll want the pipe plug installed in the left side of filter head (towards the passenger side fender). Now flip the filter head over and ensure the threaded nipple that the filter threads onto is tight, mine became slightly loose during shipping & I had to add a bit more Teflon tape to give it a nice tight seal and to prevent any movement when replacing filters. I looked through one of the open holes (the side ones on the filter head) to make sure the threaded nipple didn’t protrude too much into the filter head preventing coolant flow from center of the filter. Then I proceeded to mount the filter head bracket to the radiator passenger side top stud. My stud had the nut siezed on & I broke the stud trying to remove the nut. Replaced it with a M8-1.25x60mm bolt, sandwiching the plastic battery cable holder between the filter head bracket & rubber radiator mount. Then installed the 2 filter head to mount bracket bolts. Use antisieze on them since the head is aluminum & bolts are steel. Install both both ball valves & hoses on filter head. I ran the degas bottle t-hose (smaller barbed brass t) up towards the aluminum intake neck, zip tied to it, ran hose across to radiator to degas bottle hose. Used 2 hose pinch pliers to pinch off fluid from leaking where I’ll cut and install T. My T sits right on top of upper radiator hose, be sure to put the hose clamp screws on top side of hose so it doesn’t rub through the upper radiator hose. Now for the heater core larger blue T hose. Ran it up towards & through the A/C dryer line (horse shoe shaped line). I didn’t have a heater control valve but a garden hose flushing T instead. **remove the 2 MAP sensor torx/flat head screws and set it along with hose that goes to intake manifold to the side, I wouldn’t try to remove the hose from the MAP sensor itself. The MAP hose nipple is made out of thin brittle plastic and could break, mine did** Pinched off hoses, removed the flush T and installed blue T hose. Reinstall MAP sensor then zip tie coolant filter hose. Rubbed a dab of Murphys oil soap on the cool filter oring & installed. (A dab of new coolant will do the same in ensuring a good oring seal to head). Final step is to top off coolant & wipe off dirty fingerprints on this great looking filter kit. Replacement filters are WIX 24070 or equivalent. Hope this review helps you with a trouble free installation!